Security light installation often involves getting power to places that never had it: eaves, soffits, the peak of a garage or a detached building. Flood light installation also needs thoughtful aiming so it lights your yard without glaring into a neighbor's bedroom. Call to connect with a local electrician who can plan coverage around the house.
Motion, dusk-to-dawn and switched floods
Motion-activated floods stay off until the sensor detects movement, then light up for a set time. They're good at startling someone and they save energy. Dusk-to-dawn fixtures use a photocell to stay on all night at a steady level, which works for driveways and long walks. Some fixtures combine both, running dim all night and brightening with motion.
Mounting height and aim make a big difference. Mounted too low, fixtures are easy to reach and their sensors cover a small area. Mounted too high, sensors may miss movement close to the house. Most floods do well mounted around nine to twelve feet up, angled down so the light lands on the ground you're trying to cover rather than the street.
Spots that often need security lighting
- Driveways and the area around the garage door
- Side yards and gates that stay dark
- Back doors, decks and patio steps
- Detached garages, sheds and barns on rural properties
- Areas where a camera needs light to capture useful video
When your current security lights fall short
- Motion lights that trigger constantly from trees, cars or pets
- Floods that never come on, or stay on all day
- Glare that shines into windows next door
- Old halogen floods that run hot and burn bulbs quickly
- Dark corners the existing lights don't reach
Putting light where it's needed
The electrician walks the property with you to find dark areas and figure out power sources, often a nearby exterior light box, an attic circuit above the soffit, or a new run. They'll pick a mounting spot with a sound surface and suitable box, install the fixture, and adjust the sensor's range, sensitivity and time-on setting. Security lights often go in alongside porch and patio lighting and smart home devices like cameras.
- Power source and circuit capacity for new fixtures
- Mounting surface on soffit, siding or brick
- Wet-location rating and box sealing
- Sensor range, sensitivity and timer settings
- Aim to limit glare onto neighboring homes and the street
- Wall switch arrangement so the sensor stays powered
Safety first. Security lights are usually mounted high, which means extension ladders, uneven ground and working overhead. Most homeowners are better off leaving second-story eaves to a professional. One common mistake is wiring a motion light so the indoor switch turns it off entirely, which defeats the sensor. Make sure fixtures are rated for wet locations, and have any flickering or constantly cycling fixture checked, as moisture in the sensor is a frequent culprit.
How it usually works
Call to get connected
Call to connect with a local electrician and describe which areas of the property feel too dark.
Coverage walk-through
The electrician identifies mounting spots, power sources and how far each fixture needs to reach.
Mount and wire
Boxes and fixtures are installed at the right height and connected to power.
Adjust sensors at night
Sensor range, sensitivity and timer are tuned, and aim is adjusted to cut glare.
In Murfreesboro and Middle Tennessee homes
Rural properties in Rutherford County and the surrounding Middle Tennessee counties often have long driveways and detached barns or shops sitting well away from the house, so security lighting there can mean trenching power across the yard. In suburban Murfreesboro neighborhoods, homes are closer together and aim matters more to avoid lighting up a neighbor's windows. Spring storms also knock sensors out of alignment, so a quick recheck after severe weather helps. See also storm and lightning damage.
Related electrical problems
Seeing one of these at home? Each guide explains likely causes and what's safe to check before you call about security & motion lighting.